Dec 12, 2009

How do I reduce the iciness of hand churned ice cream?


This question was posted to me three times this week. I guess it needs some answering. I encountered the same problem initially when I first started out making ice cream by hand, but it can be easily overcome.

I would assume that your ice cream custard is cooked to perfection: Rich and thickened, an indication that a lot of the moisture has already been removed.

One reason ice crystals form is because the custard freezes up too fast. If that is the case, you can always hand churn the ice cream custard up to 4 or 5 times in total, with a 20-minute interval between each churn.

Doing this will effectively prevent the formation of large ice crystals because the custard is shifted around a bit more and any form of moisture cannot bind together and is constantly broken up. Basically, having a consistent churning process is replicating what ice cream makers do: Mind-numbing freezing while churning.

It might seem a bit more work (and a bit of a drone) but there is an additional point to note: Churning is a pretty brutal task especially when dealing with larger batches of ice cream. So you might want to work it a bit harder and not just appear to be stirring the custard around.

You really want to dig the whisk in deep and give it a good hearty spin around, making sure to scrape the sides and allowing the custard to fold over and into itself. If you do this process right, you will notice that the ice cream will have grains and pockets of spaces inside when you scoop it once it has become firm and set.

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